Direct Drive Washer Repair Series
Installment 1: Replacing your Washer Coupling
You may need to replace the motor coupling on your washer if it portrays either of the following symptoms:
- The washer fills and drains but will not spin or agitate.
- The washer makes loud noises while spinning or agitating.
Even if your coupling is not to blame, it is definitely prudent to investigate;
as it is one of the most inexpensive repair solutions for a direct drive washing machine.
Here are the tools you will need for the job:
- A Straight Blade Screwdriver
- A Phillips Screwdriver
- A ¼’’ Nut driver
- A Motor coupling – Part number 285753
(fits most direct drive washing machines)
The repair itself is very simple, but getting to the coupling can be a bit tricky.
The first thing that you want to do before repairing your appliance is to make sure that the machine is unplugged!
I can tell you from experience that receiving a shock while trying to perform a repair is most unpleasant!
Additionally you are going to want to remove your drain and fill hoses.
Make sure that you turn your water lines off before removing the fill hoses; it’s not very fun to do a repair while soaking wet.
Once the machine is unplugged and the hoses are removed, our next move is to take off the exterior metal casing on your washer.
We're looking for 2 Phillips screws on the left and right side of the console on your washer.
On some models there are plastic trim pieces covering the screws; they pop off very easily.
After you remove the two console screws, slide the console forward and flip it back; this will expose two brass colored retainer clips.
You will use your straight blade screwdriver to remove these clips. Notice that these clips are somewhat in the shape of the letter “W.”
To easily remove them hold your flat blade horizontally and insert it into the cavity closest to you.
Then push the handle portion of the screw driver forward (away from you); this will cause it to catch a lip and pop right out!
Next you must unplug your lid switch (it’s between the two clips that you just removed).
Once the lid switch is unplugged you can completely remove the outer metal casing of your washer.
The easiest way to do this is to open the lid and grab the inside of the metal casing. Pull the casing towards you and it will come right off.
I recommend finding an open area to set the case in so that it doesn’t get in your way.
Take a moment to appreciate the ingenuity behind your washing machine; as you will have a clear view of its insides at this point.
Now that the case is off, lay your washer gently on its back.
It’s good to have a towel handy, because any water that is lingering in the washer will want to drain out as you lay it down.
At this point, you should be able to see the drain pump, motor and transmission; we will remove them in the order that they are mentioned.
There are two retainer clips holding the pump on; using your flat blade screw driver you can pop them off easily.
There’s no need to disconnect the hoses from the pump, simply tuck it out of your way.
Now you’ve reached the motor; disconnect the plug from it and remove the clips just like you did for the washer pump.
Be careful when doing this; the motor is very heavy and could drop off while removing the clips.
Note: If there are screws holding your motor in, you will need a nut driver usually ¼’’ or 5/16’'.
These screws are in place for shipping purposes only and are not necessary to replace on re-assembly.)
Once the plug and clips are removed from your motor, lift it straight up; this will expose the transmission.
In the area that the motor made contact with the transmission is where you find your coupling. If it is in fact the culprit, it will usually appear broken or ground to bits.
Even if it appears to be in-tact, since you have gone this far it doesn't hurt to take it off the transmission for a closer look.
The easiest way to remove the coupling is by using your straight blade screw driver to pry it off.
Note: If you encounter a coupling with a steel liner, it may be necessary to use an automotive tie rod end removing tool (also known as a pickle fork) to pry it off of the transmission.
Once the old coupling is off, it’s time to install the replacement coupling.
Press each side of the new coupling onto the motor and the transmission; you want to put them on snugly.
Next you are going to want to align the couplings together and place the motor back onto the transmission.
The motor retainer clips should be easy to put back on; if it’s a struggle the coupling may not be connected properly.
At this point, simply follow the disassembly instructions in reverse to put your washing machine back together.
Overall this is a fairly simple and inexpensive repair; the job from start to finish should take about a half an hour.
A service man would charge about $150 for this type of repair; but thrifty you can do it for under $10! High five my friend!
If this repair was helpful, please take time to share your thoughts in the comments below! We would love to hear an account of your repair experience(s)!
Did the washer coupling turn out NOT to be the issue? You are more than welcome to consult with our technicians here!
Give us a call at (715) 392-4808; we would be happy to assist you.
Store hours are 9am-5pm Monday-Friday (CST).
Keep your eyes peeled for future installments of our Direct Drive Washer Repair Series!
Until next time; have a great day and happy repairing to you!
